Orkney 1999/ Irish 2002 / Williamson 2010 / Islay 2010 (TWA)

Four secret whiskies from The Whisky Agency, bottled in celebration of their 15th anniversary. We’ve had two sessions already (one / two) and this time we’re focusing on undisclosed whisky. Most are quite easy to guess though…

 

Secret Orkney 24 yo 1999 (52,6%, The Whisky Agency ’15th Anniversary’ 2023, hogshead, 299 btl.)

Nose: fresh and coastal, on sea spray and chalk, along with raw wool, green apples and lemon peels. Hints of mint tea, light grassy notes and a little rhubarb. Then classic heather honey. There seems to be more herbal peat than in official release, or perhaps it comes forward because there is hardly any sherry here. Light waxy notes too.

Mouth: pretty excellent, with a very oily texture, chalky notes, salt and a subdued fruitiness. Smoked grapefruit and peach, as well as barley sugars. The wood spice is fairly powerful (pepper, liquorice, ginger). Then back to mineral oils, some earthy touches, herbs and honey.

Finish: long, on warming spice, light smoke, green peppercorns and some hints of bitter oranges.

Scapa was silent between 1994 and 2004, so this is Highland Park. I often wonder why distilleries would hand over certain casks to brokers. In this case perhaps the active wood influence didn’t really suit the official profile? Nice austerity and purity.

 

 

Irish Single Malt 20 yo 2002 (49,2%, The Whisky Agency ’15th Anniversary’ 2023, barrel, 185 btl.)

Nose: beautiful and pure, with greengages, fresh green apples, growing warmer with hints of bananas and kiwi. Drops of sunflower oil, white florals, green tea and subtle mint. Some lime as well. Hard to resistin all its simplicity.

Mouth: green lemons, green bananas and crisp apples, with hints of grapefruit. Then more floral notes, fennel and grassy touches, along with aniseed. Salted mango?

Finish: medium length, with grapefruit zest, lemons, delicate peach and a grassy edge.

The expected fruits with a green side. These 2002s are never astronomically good but they never disappoint either. Score: 87/100

 

 

Secret Islay (Williamson) 12 yo 2010 (49,4%, The Whisky Agency ’15th Anniversary’ 2023, hogshead, 267 btl.)

Nose: a mezcally profile. Lemons, some pharmacy notes and herbal infusions, plasticine and salt. Then some tar, coastal peat, green olives, smoked fennel and clay. Sharp as a blade, really good.

Mouth: slightly rounder now, with some vanilla and banana at first. This is quickly overtaken by saltwater, seaweed, tar and lots of ashy notes. More agave notes. Clove oil, old paper and hints of dusty barley.

Finish: long, with sea shells, lemons, a tiny buttery note and smoke.

Highly coastal, tight and slightly raw Williamson. This would be great on oysters. And without oysters. Score: 88/100

 

 

Secret Islay 14 yo 2009 (50,7%, The Whisky Agency ’15th Anniversary’ 2023, butt, 428 btl.)

Nose: after the Williamson almost mild, with fruits like lime, charred lemon and apples. Darker sooty smoke, burnt wood logs, a lot of iodine. Then also menthol, seaweed, raw wool and hints of hay. Not that far from the official Ten.

Mouth: peat smoke, lots of black peppercorns, cold ashes and a very subtle hint of chocolate in the background. Some aniseed, hints of vanilla. Drops of seawater, lemon juice and smoked herbs. Just enough sweetness to counter the peatiness – great balance.

Finish: long, still classic. Ashtray, hay, lemon and a drop of honey.

Peaty intensity, but not too much. Nice sweetness and coastal notes. In short, all the classic notes in good measure. My favourite from this session. Score: 89/100